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Preparedness Nuggets

A Cyberbook of Practical Wisdom for Daily Living

gathered from internet discussion groups and edited for web publication by

Mrs. Julianne Wiley .

Part the Fourteenth

Encourage Young Mothers to Breast-feed

Pressure Canning Milk

Pumping from a deep well

Sierra camp stoves and wood pallets

Small stock: the advantages of having friends

Soy and More Soy

Using water bottles for thermal mass

Bottling your own water

Burying potato stems

Canning Web Sites

Cooked Soybeans

Cooking jelly without pectin

Cooking Rice Right

Don't store water in your attic

Farm supply: water tanks

Grow and dry chili peppers as a healing herb

More cake-in-a-jar recipes

Newspaper Logs

Oil, Fat, and Grease

Planting potatoes in straw

Potatoes in the mulch

Smells in the kitchen

Softened soya grits

Solar water distilling

Soy cakes

Soy cheese

Soy spread

Soybean medley

Soybean paste


Square foot potatoes

Stock something for the babies

Storing beans

Storing gasoline

To ripen green tomatoes

Tofu: how to make it

Storing grains outside in freezing weather


Mother's milk is best, of course: but even in the best of times, not all mothers can nurse. Maybe every family, pregnant or not, might want to stock up on a case of Baby Formula. What could it hurt? Come January 2000, it might save the life of someone's precious child. If the crisis is not bad you can donate it to the needy afterwards.





Moms who give birth anytime in 1999 should be strongly encouraged to nurse their babies for an *extended* length of time. many potentially lifesaving benefits for baby. "The Womanly Art of Breast-feeding" by La Leche League has a wealth of information which can inspire mothers to nurse their babies, and practical tips for overcoming difficulties which many new mothers face. It might be a good idea to buy a couple copies of this book and give it NOW to pregnant neighbors, relatives and friends!!! Contact:



Find some used plastic barrels (not steel) they are used to ship and store chemicals. The popular sizes are 30 and 55 gallons. They usually go for $25.00 range. Fill these with fuel and buy a hand pump to fill a smaller container to service your equipment. You can buy a pump from Northern . LAST but not least use STA-BIL or PRI-G or the Briggs & Stratton gasoline stabilizer in the fuel unless you plan to use it all in month or two; with stabilizers, it stays fresh for better than a year and all it take to restore old fuel condition is add some more PRI-G, check out

Where do you get the barrels? Try manufacture plants, oil distributors, in large cities look in yellow pages under barrels.

Another idea: How about a fuel oil tank that can be purchased at an oil supplier?



Q: I've been canning and now can't get the smell of broccoli out of my kitchen! Help!

A: The Trapper in our area swears by slicing raw onions and leaving them out on a plate to absorb odors. Baking soda will also help. And as a last resort, bake a really spicy cake and maybe that will overpower it. At least your family will appreciate the effort. :)



Q: We have a 400-ft well which presently uses an electric pump. If I couldn't use a hand pump, is there any non-electric way to draw water from a well that deep?

A: Turns out that regular solar power can't start a well pump because of the initial draw of power. There is a smaller pump that can be used. It is run by electricity from solar panels stored in battery in the pump house. The panels have to be facing due south and do not have to be at the pump house. (Reason for me is that I am not strong enough to walk through the snow to the pump house in winter) So in winter you have to keep the snow off of these. My well is also 400' deep and this pump is lowered into the well--can actually use the same access as the regular pump. It is small and requires less amps to start and run. It is only lowered to just below the water level in which case you would have to know where the water level is.

The cost is about $1800.00 I don't even know what that includes actually as I have just began to investigate. I live high in the mountains and have a great well! The only thing I would actually need electricity for is water actually if everything else fails.

I got this info from Backwoods Solar and Electric systems , 1395 Rolling Thunder Ridge, Sandpoint, ID 83864. 208-263-4293. since I have MS there is no way I can "pump" anything.



I have had several grains that I had to keep outside in the shed during the winter months and have had them for 2 years without any bugs..I had some oatmeal that I had only a few months, inside, and it got very buggy. Oatmeal that I had stored out in the cold has kept for those 2 years... I think the extreme cold killed those little critters. Now I will put all my buckets in the cold for at least a while to kill those little dudes.



Take those soda bottles and fill them with water NOW and add about 10 drops of chlorine. This is not for drinking but to leach the soda back out of the plastic. Let them sit for a few weeks then empty them out: use the water for clothes washing or in the garden or something -- and then refill the bottles with tap water to which 3 or 4 drops of chlorine are added. At this point, as long as stored in a dark place, they will keep indefinitely.

Check out my website for the "camping at home for a month" concept. that is what my husband and I are recommending as a strategy for minimal preparation.



Actually, the 2 liter bottles are great as a thermal mass for your house, too. Put 'em against a south wall, and they'll absorb heat during the day and radiate it back out during the night. The fact that you can drink 'em if you've put a little bleach in 'em before you sealed them up is like a bonus.

We heard that the plastic in the waterbed mattresses was treated with an algae-inhibiting substance which is not necessarily the most desirable additive for drinking water. So we are going to use the food-grade water-storage bags for drinking water, and use a waterbed mattress for washing water.

We will also have some 55 gal. plastic barrels (second hand, previously used for shipping a detergent, $5 apiece) which we would be able to re-use indefinitely in catching rainwater, AND many dozen some liter and 2-liter plastic bottles (recycled pop and juice bottles) which we want to have in case we need some supplies to be easily transportable.




1 cup dried soybeans

2 cups water

1/4 olive oil (I'd use less)

Salt or garlic salt

Soak beans in water overnight in refrigerator (if you can't refrigerate, do the quick method: cover beans with 3 cups of water, bring to a boil, boil for a few minutes, remove from heat and let stand an hour). Pour off water and dry the beans with a paper towel. Spread in a large flat pan and bake at 200 degrees, stirring occasionally until dry (3 hours.) Add olive oil, salt or garlic salt to taste and cook another 15 minutes. Store in airtight container. If they're not dry enough, or if they collect moisture from the air, bake at 300 degrees for another half hour.


Cooked soybeans

Diced onion

Diced celery


Above in proportions to suit you taste. Smoosh it all together and use as a dip or spread on toast or crackers.


1 clove garlic salt to taste

1 large onion t. savory

4 large stalks celery 3 cups soybeans,

2 T. oil or butter cooked

large green pepper

1 cup canned tomatoes or 2 large ripe tomatoes, cut up

Chop coarsely the garlic, onion, celery and green pepper. Simmer in covered pan in the oil or butter for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cut up. Cook 5 minutes. Add salt to taste and teaspoon savory. Add to 3 cups cooked soybeans, heat and serve. Serves 4 to 6.


2 cups soybeans 2 bay leaves

hot water 1 teaspoon salt

1 small onion, diced 1 tablespoon oil

1/4 cup celery, diced

Cover soybeans with hot water and soak overnight. Drain, rinse, and cover with water. Add all other ingredients. Bring to boil in a covered pan, lower heat, and simmer for 2 hours. Makes 6 cups cooked beans.

SOY CAKES : ( using cooked beans or soy paste) TOP

3 cups cooked soy beans, chopped or mashed 1 T soy sauce

1/4 Cup onion chopped

1/4 tsp. salt

2 T. parsley, minced

1/4 t. basil or oregano

cup wheat germ

1 bouillon cube

bran flakes

1/4 cup cooking water from soy beans, stock

or water

Combine all ingredients well. Shape into 8 small or 6 large patties. Coat with fine bread crumbs or additional wheat germ or bran flakes. Saute gently in vegetable oil until brown.


Many uses for this pulp from the bean: mix with minced onion and mayonnaise for sandwich filling, or use in soups, meatloaf, etc.

2 cups cooked soy beans

Drain cooked soybeans through a strainer or colander. Put drained beans though a food press, sieve or strainer, or mash thoroughly into a paste. Store in the refrigerator for use as needed. Makes 2 cups.


Super as a meat extender. Use in scrambled eggs, casseroles, souffles, meat patties, breads, muffins, cookies. If you want them nut-like, as in cookies, let them soak only 15 minutes.

1 cup boiling water or stock

1 cup soy grits

Pour boiling water over soy grits and soak until moisture is absorbed, about 1 hour. Store in covered container in refrigerator to use as needed.


Tofu is a soybean curd. It has a bland flavor and texture similar to soft cheese. it is easy to make and has many uses. This version is firm enough to cut up and use like cheese in hot dishes or casseroles. Crumble it in a salad, saute it, or use in any of gluten recipe.

1 cup soy beans 4 T. lemon juice

4 cups water

Soak beans in water to cover overnight. drain beans and rinse well. Place one cup soaked soy beans with 2 cups water in a bender for 2 minutes. Strain this mixture through a fine sieve into a large pan. Repeat until all beans are ground. (Save the drained, ground soy bean pulp for soups, casseroles or breads). to the strained liquid add enough water to make 8 cups of soy milk. Bring this mixture to a boil over low heat to prevent scorching. Remove from heat. Add lemon juice and stir. Place in a bowl covered with cheesecloth and allow to stand several hours in a warm place until mixture separates and cheese coagulates. Strain through cheese cloth. remove the cheese-like curd from the cheesecloth and store covered with water in a container in the fridge. This bean curd may be used in recipes calling for tofu or soy cheese.


Soy cheese is similar in taste to Tofu but is softer, more like cottage cheese. Serve it seasoned with vegetable salt and chives. The remaining liquid may be used in soups or breads.

1 cup soy powder 2 cups boiling water

(full fat)

1 cup cold water cup lemon juice

Combine soy powder with cold water to a smooth paste. Add to boiling water, stirring thoroughly. Cook for 5 minutes. Add lemon juice, stir. Remove from heat and cool. When mixture separates into curds, strain through a fine sieve or cheesecloth. Drain well. Store in refrigerator up to 3/4 days.


Shelby's hint of the day: To ripened green tomatoes - place green tomatoes in brown paper bag, add apple or banana, close bag, place in warm spot. (Tomatoes do not need the sun to ripen, they need a warm place, the gases from the apple or banana, confined with the brown paper bag makes the tomatoes ripen. )



Easy: roll up newspaper tight, tie with twine, soak overnight in water (yes, water: makes the paper structure clump up and burn better), then dry thoroughly. Burns like wood. Careful though - they can generate creosote, which can foul your stovepipe and increase the risk of chimney fire. Also, they can burn hotter than wood, again increasing the risk of fire, since the woodstove and fireplace chimneys are built for a certain heat rating.



The Sierra is an ingeniously designed stove, marketed as a barbecue cooker. It is a two burner size cooker. Small blocks of wood is all it takes for fuel. A small battery-powered fan blows like a bellows onto the base of the fire. This creates a controllable fire which can go from a warming temperature to 1,000 degrees. Incredible. Use wood pallets for free fuel. Wood pallets can be easily disassembled and cut up into small blocks using just a circular saw. Free from most stores and construction sites. One pallet will easily supply enough fuel for three meals a day with one-half hour cooking time per meal for five days. Stack them up out of the way and use when needed. Free.

View it online:

One can use rechargeable NICAD batteries and a solar charger for the forced air mechanism. It can be used either as a grill, or with pots and pans sitting on the grill. One can also put one of those collapsible camping ovens on the grill and bake with it. When burning pallets: You can cook on pallet-wood, but if the wood has been treated, it will not be so good for e.g. grilling meat. Still fine for heating, though.



For those interested in home preservation, I found a couple of nice sites today:

Home Canning Magazine

USDA Complete Guide to Home Canning, on-line (English and French) (English and Spanish)



We did potatoes by using a 2 ft. x 2 ft. area and 2 plants at the opposing corners:


l x l l

l l l


l l l

l l x l


We placed the sprouting potato just at the soil level and covered with a 3 inch thick layer of mulch. When the plant was @ 8 inches tall. We then used rose collars(2 connected to make a circle @1 ft diameter) to surround each plant. Then as the plants grew I filled in the collars with shredded bark mulch (leaving at least 4 inches of the plant exposed). When it grew up, I added another collar and more mulch. When this 2nd level was reached I just let the plant grow. After the plant dies back just open the collars. Push out the mulch and the potatoes will tumble loose...We got @ 12 potatoes from each plant.



First-time experiment: mixed results.

Many of the potatoes rotted. We did get a lot of wet weather right away, and with the straw covering the potatoes, I think it created too much humidity. It was always wet (not just damp/cool) under the straw. Next year I would bury the seed potatoes and only begin covering with straw only as the plants grew.

The potatoes took a long time to root. Until the roots found the soil, they were just hanging off the potato. Again, had I planted them in the dirt, I think they'd have gotten a faster start.

Animals got a bunch of seed potatoes. Don't know if this is directly related to the straw method or to the fact that the electric fence wasn't up yet :-). If they were buried, they'd smell less, and attract fewer animals?

The straw packed down with time. This is a good thing, but means you need to get out there and replenish the straw. I had 5 3x10 beds, and used about 3 bales. I didn't have "seed free straw" - is there such a thing, really? - but the wheat seeds that took were easy to pull out, since the soil under the straw was quite moist.

Harvesting is really easy. Just lift the straw. Potatoes are just sitting on top of the soil, or halfway embedded in the ground. You don't even need tools. We just pulled out the potatoes and left them age a day or two on top of the straw. This, IMO, is the best part about the straw method. You don't go slicing up your crop with a shovel or fork.

Production for each plant was not much different for us than the standard growing method, though the late start had some negative impact. Oh, and home grown potatoes are Really Good. But you already knew that.

Learned: plant earlier, plant in the dirt, lay straw later, and keep that electric fence on!



Years and years ago (I've just dated myself) in the old Organic Gardening and Farming Magazine, there were many articles about Ruth Stout's method of no-till gardening. For years, she'd placed heavy mulch of hay over her garden area, then just pulled aside the mulch in a narrow row or area and planted her seed.

I tried this with potatoes by laying the sprouted pieces on the surface of soil I'd loosened and was free of weeds. I covered the potatoes with 6 to 12 inches of hay. The potato sprouts came up through the hay and it seemed there was less trouble with the Colorado Potato Beetle. Handpicking took care of those few.

As summer progressed, I'd pull aside the hay and scrounge the largest potatoes from the clump for eating, then re-cover with mulch and water heavily so they'd continue to grow and the small potatoes would enlarge. When the vines either had dried completely or there was a frost to kill the still-living vines, I'd remove the mulch and harvest all the remaining potatoes.

I'd think in a 9 sq. ft.. bed = 3'x3', you could plant 5 potato seed:

x x


x x

The vines would overrun the bed, but this would be of maximum utilization.


In the Feb. '96 issue of Organic Gardening Mel B. suggests a method of growing potatoes, i.e. digging a foot down and "hilling" in the hole as the plant grows in order to produce a long stem and a high yield. I tried that this year and was somewhat too successful!

I planted remnants from last year's Yukon Gold crop in the following pattern:




X X X X,

where the X's are potatoes and the O's are something else, in this case a mix of salad vegetables.

The vines got *enormous*, so much so that I put in welded wire fencing to get the growth headed upward instead of all over everything else in the bed and in neighboring beds.

The size of the vines surprised me, since here in the Skagit Valley (Northwest Washington State) commercially-grown potatoes (and there are a *lot* of them!) display a much more compact growth habit. They are, I believe, Red Nakotas (sp.?) and Cascade Whites. Previously, I let the vines sprawl on the ground, and their height (if directed upward) wasn't immediately apparent.

In desperation, I cut the vines at ground level on 7 Aug. although the plants still had plenty of growing to do. By that date almost all of the commercial fields had either been harvested or vine-killed. I harvested on 21 Aug. The yield was good: much greater percentage of tubers were good-sized with not many "marbles" at all. As usual, among eight plants, there were two tubers which were gooey. I think this may be bacterial soft rot, but I'm not sure.

I may have self-inflicted this problem by planting the entire potato instead of cutting out an eye, treating the cut edges and planting that. Next year I'll experiment by doing that, and perhaps by devoting one entire bed to potatoes, using welded wire fencing again if required.




My friend and I had enough scrap on hand to do this without any purchases, We used an old shower door for the glass.


Sheet of glass - arbitrary size greater than 6 sq ft

Sheet of plywood .5 to .75 thickness a little larger than glass

A length of 2X6 and a length of 2X4 the width of the glass

A shallow, narrow trough - such as a 1" PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise or use your imagination. Like build one from scrap wood. Also needs to be as long as width if glass (approx.)

Small supply of waterproof paint and caulk.

Nail, screws and stuff.


Build a box the size of the glass, such that the glass will be a tight fitting lid. The box's ends are made using the 2X6 on one end and the 2X4 on the other. The bottom is from plywood, as is the sides. The sides need to be cut at an angle so that the ends of each side are flush with the 2X ends. Once the box is built, use caulk and waterproof black paint to seal and protect the wood.

Using scrap plastic and PVC glue, block the ends of the trough so that it will hold water. Then drill a .25 diameter hole in one end and attach a short length of plastic tubing and seal well.

Mount the trough on the 2X4 at the shallow end so that it is about 1.5 in above the bottom of the box, drill a hole in the box to feed the plastic tubing through.

Run a bead of caulk along the width of the glass a little from one end such that the caulk will be directly above the trough when the glass lid is in place.

Place the box in a protected location in full sun, on a table or stand or saw horses or something. Pour in about a gallon or so of water you want to purify. Put the tubing into the mouth of a water jug. Place the glass lid on top, and wait.

The sun will warm the water, which will evaporate. The vapor will condense onto the glass and run down the underside of the glass till it reaches the caulk bead then it drips into the trough, and out the tube winding up in the water jug. If the temperature is too hot, the vapor might not condense on the glass. If this happens, pour a little cool non-purified water over the glass to cool it off every now & then, being careful not to get any of it into the purified water. I suggest emptying this every night to reduce bacteria build up. I also suggest using a mild bleach solution to disinfect the glass, trough, and tubing before use.

Most all commercially available silicon latex caulk would be safe for use in this. They typically include a mildew-cide, but shouldn't hurt. If you are concerned, use an aquarium save silicon caulk for the drip bead. As I recall about 8 - 10 sq ft glass surface can result in 1 gallon of purified water per day, depending on sun, temperature, and humidity.



I have navy (pea) beans, red kidney beans and pinto beans in 5-gallon buckets 25# of the pea beans fill it about 3/4 of the way. The kidney and pinto beans are a bit more bulky. Probably 30# of each would fill your buckets. Any over you could use immediately.

Have you thought of putting the beans in zip lock bags and then putting an assortment in each bucket? That way, you wouldn't be opening a bucket of ONE kind of bean but of an assortment. Have also heard (but not tried) of putting different kinds of beans in 2-liter soda bottles, putting them in a bucket, and then filling the bucket with rice. That also provides an assortment.

I keep my beans with only bay leaves for protection but I must emphasize that I live in a cool climate and have a cool house.



If the pocketbook will allow it check with your farm supply store into water storage tanks. My tank outside is 2500 gallons. It's gravity fed to my water system downstairs in the basement by 2" PVC pipe.

On the way into the house I have spliced in a faucet to the line. When teotwaki hits, I cap it off from the inside supply, and I can get the fresh drinking water from the 2500 gal tank.

I have a family of 5. If we can make it on 10 gallons of water for cooking and drinking per day the water supply will last us 250 days.



Water weights about 8 lb.. per gallon. If you want to double check my figure, go to supermarket and take a one gallon jug of water over to produce and check the weight. One of the storage sites that sells this type of bag tells about someone that stores theirs in the attic - very bad idea for most homes as the attic floor in most homes is not made to hold that type of weight in such a small area. A really BAD plan if you live in earth quake territory.



If you have cows or goats, but no longer have refrigeration----

Don't try to can milk with just a boiling water bath: it doesn't get hot enough to kill all microorganisms. But you CAN can (can can?) milk with a pressure canner. Be aware the milk will be just fine pressure canned but will turn slightly brownish like evaporated milk. The reason it does this is due to the high temps of pressure canning. It caramelizes the milk sugars. The milk will be fine for's fine for drinking just doesn't taste quite the same.

Pressure Canning Milk:

Fill clean jars with strained milk, leaving inch headspace for expansion. Put on lids and rings and tighten down rings gently. Place in pressure canner with 2-3 inches of water and process at 15 lbs pressure for 10 minutes. Remove and let cool 24 hours undisturbed before moving into storage.



The web-site is

Woooo! Going out to the flea market to buy up all the straight-sided canning jars right now!



We eat rice with almost every meal, many different kinds of rice. They frequently call for their own cooking style, but we have pretty much simplified it to these steps...for each cup of rice, use 2 cups of water; soak the rice in the water for 30 minutes in a covered pan, then bring to a boil quickly, then simmer for about 40 minutes. (time varies)

We do this with Jasmine, Basmati, mixed breeds (Texmati, Kasmati, Jasmati, etc.) long grain and short grain, white and brown, ...whatever we have.



Many people are talking about getting "micro livestock" (small livestock like chickens, rabbits, dwarf dairy goats) for self-sufficiency As a homesteader, I say: great! ... but you'd better have friends. I say this because, first, newbies need experienced neighbors to go for knowledge and advice. The best hot-to books can do is to tell you, for example, how to raise rabbits "anywhere." But you're not "anywhere," you have your own micro environment consisting of a particular soil type, particular climate, particular diseases ., parasites and predators nearby, and a LOCAL friend is the one who can tell you how to deal with it.

Second, if you raise animals, somebody's got to be there to feed and care for them EVERY day: no time off, no getting away for a couple of days. Dairy animals especially, really tie you down. You can sometimes get a neighbor to come in and feed your animals, but you'd better be sure you've got someone who's willing AND ABLE to milk one, too. And that's twice a day.

Third: all successful "real" farming communities are based on some degree of long-term cooperation. Even if you're not a farmer, just a self-sufficiency prepper, you won't do very well for very long unless you have some people around for give-and-take. In fact "SELF-sufficiency" is a misnomer. It's almost always family, extended family, and neighbor-sufficiency.



Making jelly or preserves without added pectin is pretty simple. You just cook it until it "sheets." That means every so often you dip a metal spoon in the stuff as you cook it. Hold the bowl of the spoon perpendicular to the pot, and let the stuff drip back in. At first, it will just run back in a series of single drips. When your preserves reach the sheeting point, the drops will join together along the edge of the spoon, and will look like a "sheet" of jelly or preserves. At this point, it is jelled enough.

This works best with fruits that have a lot of natural pectin (like apples.) You can add apple to other fruits or berries, or add crab-apple (just a little: lots of pectin, but they're tart)--- that'll give you good results.



People nowadays have such a prejudice against fat-oil-grease, we think we just have to throw it away lest we die of cholesterol! But for most of the last 5 - 10,000 years, most people have thought of these as valuable commodities. Here's what you can do with them:

- Add to the food of any outside-living pets (dogs or cats.) They need extra fat in the winter to stay warm

- Roll fat-oil-grease with birdseed to feed to the wild birds in winter.

- Save to make soap.

- Save to make tallow candles. These are softer, and burn faster and smokier than beeswax or paraffin candles, but they do make acceptable candlelight--- especially the harder fats, like beef or sheep suet--- and it makes sense if the fat is free and would be thrown out otherwise. (And fat is hard to throw "out." Doesn't compost well.)

- Fry foods in it. It's no worse than Crisco, and some folks even say that lard (animal fat), though it has cholesterol, is healthier than vegetable oils products like Crisco which, through artificial jiggery-pokery, have been made hard through hydrogenation/saturation.

Potato pancakes NEED to be fried in chicken grease. Try it and you'll taste how much better they are. Scrambled eggs NEED to be friend in bacon grease. Save your hamburger grease for frying onions. And burn up those extra calories! Get out and chop some wood!



I noticed that the cayenne in hot sauce started relieving my angina pains, started making my heart beat on a more regular basis - and beat slower. I WASN'T noticing that at all from the healthfood store stuff; cayenne capsules. I talked to the man who owned the Chinese restaurant. I asked him where he got his hot sauce and how he made it. He showed me the chilies he was using. The chilies he was using were supposedly the same variety sold by the big herb companies. He wasn't using any real exotic chilies; they were just fresh cayenne peppers at 40,000 heat units. They were the same thing that I was supposedly taking in the capsules, but again, the capsules were powdered. His cayennes were fresh. And that was the reason I was starting to get cured.

The chilies from the restaurant still had their Vitamin A and their Vitamin C and the enzymes and the flavonoids, and all of the other known and unknown things that get destroyed when you heat something up.

But when the herb companies over-grind and overheat cayenne into powder for encapsulation, they wreck it. If you are not careful when you powder herbs, you can cook them by accident. Do not cook them. Dry them, then powder them.


For much greater detail about my plans for adapting my "urban homestead" to meet the looming challenges of peak oil, climate instability, and economic irrationality, see Gatewood Urban Homestead, the permaculture design for my home.

Better Times Cookbook V | Justpeace | Better Times | | Access to Energy Conservation | On Pilgrimage in Oklahoma City | Bookstore | Better Times II | Bulgar Bugle | Mutual Aid (Grassroots home and community scale disaster preparations)